Category Archives: Uncategorized

Whitebait country

The roar of the sea is a quiet constant at Okarito campground. Closer is the scrabbling sound of dinner – trying to escape. On tonight’s menu is whitebait fritters. They couldn’t be fresher. Caught this morning, they are alarmingly alive, … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Okarito – in many moods

Wild, white-capped seas froth onto the pebbled shore under a menacing sky, hailstones whipped by a strong sou-westerly pelt bare legs as I beat a hasty retreat from beach to campervan. West Coast magic! I’d been looking forward to getting … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Portal to the past

Tucked in a remote valley accessed only by sheep track, the hand-built stone cottage looks like a portal to the past – to a time when miners crowded the Moke Valley behind Queenstown in search of gold. Mountains rise steeply … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , | 5 Comments

things that go clunk…

West Coast roads have a lot of ups, downs, sharp bends and long gaps between any human habitation. That’s the attraction But it’s the last place you want to hear ominous clunking noises coming from just underneath the cab of … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Route 35 – the slow travel movement

If you go around East Cape, you have to stop at least three times, a friend informs me. He’s wrong. My count has far exceeded that and I’ve only reached Tokomaru. Route 35 – the Pacific Coast Highway – is … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Bonding over a falcon

Visiting Okarito has been on my wish list for a long time. I’m not quite sure why. It’s the environment that informs Keri Hulme’s luminous prose; a place where white herons stride the still lagoon, where waves pound a driftwood-strewn … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Tomorrow as it used to be

Penguins and penny farthings; seals and “steampunk”. Oamaru is a place where eccentricity and eco-tourism flourish with equal vigour against an architectural backdrop that seems to have emerged unscathed from the 19thcentury. The past is not just preserved but celebrated … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment